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Scots Pine (Pinus sylvestris) in the Ancient Caledonian Forest. Loch Garten Nature Reserve, Scotland. |
The forests of Scotland are wreathed in myth and
mystery. The Romans built Hadrian’s Wall
to protect Britannia from the wild Picts lurking in trees to the north. Shakespeare’s Macbeth was certain of his rule
until Birnam Wood marched on Dunsinane.
Robert Kirk, a 17th century Scottish minister and folklorist, wrote of a Secret Commonwealth of elves, fauns and fairies that inhabited the
Highland forests.
Video of the Ancient Caledonian Forest.
Loch Garten Nature Reserve, Scotland.
One of these Scottish woodlands is the Ancient Caledonian
Forest. It once covered much of Northern
Scotland and was called the Great Wood. The
Ancient Caledonian Forest’s signature tree is the Scots Pine (Pinus sylvestris). This tree and other species that populate this forest
colonized the Highlands after the last ice age and comprise a unique assemblage of
plants and animals. We were able to hike
in the Ancient Caledonia Forest during our recent trip to Scotland. Here are some of the things we experienced.
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Scots Pine bark. Loch Garten Nature Reserve, Scotland. |
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Scots Pine needles and immature female cones. Loch Garten Nature Reserve, Scotland. |
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Scots Pine mature female cone. Loch Garten Nature Reserve, Scotland. |
Scots Pine is found in the boreal forests of Eurasia and
Scotland is the westernmost natural outpost of this tree. People have transplanted it around
the world for timber, pulp wood and as Christmas trees. Plantation grown Scots Pine has a straight
trunk and can reach over 100 feet. Scots
Pines growing in the wild on poor, acidic soil and exposed to the harsh weather
of Northern Scotland are often gnarled and twisted. They are a long-lived species with some surviving
for more than 300 years. As we walked
through groves of these great trees we found ourselves speaking in hushed tones as if we were in a
cathedral.
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Rowan (Sorbus acucuparia) tree. Loch Garten Nature Reserve, Scotland.
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Rowan in flower. Loch Garten Nature Reserve, Scotland. |
Another tree in the Ancient Caledonian Forest is Rowan (Sorbus
aucuparia). This is a small tree with compound leaves and when we saw them in June, they had white flowers that
by fall would develop into red fruits.
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Common Juniper (Juniperus communis). Loch Garten Nature Reserve, Scotland. |
Common Juniper (Juniperus communis) is a coniferous
tree of the forest understory. It has
short, sharp needles and separate male and female trees. Female trees bear fleshy cones called juniper berries. The berries are
added to gin, contributing to the drink’s distinctive flavor.
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Silver Birch (Betula pendula) leaves. Loch Garten Nature Reserve, Scotland.
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Silver Birch bark. Loch Garten Nature Reserve, Scotland. |
Betula pendula or Silver Birch has white papery bark
and pendulous triangular leaves. They
were growing among the Scots Pines.
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Lichens. Loch Garten Nature Reserve, Scotland.
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Lichens. Loch Garten Nature Reserve, Scotland. |
Lichens
are abundant on the ground, on rocks, tree trunks and branches in the forest. These symbionts consist of a fungus and a
photosynthetic alga living as a single organism. Lichens are extremely sensitive to air
pollution and their abundance in the forest was clear indication of good air
quality.
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Bracken (Pteridium aquilinum). Loch Garten Nature Reserve, Scotland.
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Bog Cotton (Eriophorum angustifolium) fruits. Loch Garten Nature Reserve, Scotland.
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Smaller plants in the forest include Bracken (
Pteridium
aquilinum).
This fern has large
leaves that turn golden-brown in the fall.
Bog Cotton or Cotton Grass (
Eriophorum angustifolium) is a sedge
found in northern regions of both the New World and Old.
It makes tufts of white fruits that resemble
cotton bolls.
While this plant is not
used for textiles, the fruits were once used to make bandages and paper.
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Common Chickweed (Stellaria media). Bogach, Scotland. |
Common Chickweed’s (Stellaria media)
white flowers were in the forest understory.
This is the same chickweed we have growing in our yard and came to us from
Eurasia. It was a treat to see Common
Chickweed in its native habitat.
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Black Slug (Arion ater). Bogach, Scotland. |
There were animals too, both large and small. We found several Black Slugs (Arion ater)
in the forest. These impressively large
gastropods can reach six inches in length and are shiny black. Black Slugs are hermaphrodites with both male and female genitals. They consume
dead plant material, mushrooms, carrion and decomposing plant material. Authorities claim Black Slugs are edible but
taste horrible. Echoing the adage that
everything is edible, once.
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Common Chaffinch (Fringilla coelebs). Bogach, Scotland.
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Common Wood Pigeon (Columba palumbus). Loch Garten Nature Reserve, Scotland. |
Birds were abundant in the forest. Some of the birds we found were Eurasian Chaffinches (Fringilla coelebs)
and the plump Common Wood Pigeons (Columba palumbus).
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Spotted Flycatcher (Muscicapa striata). Loch Garten Nature Reserve, Scotland.
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Spotted Flycatcher on nest. Loch Garten Nature Reserve, Scotland.
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Willow Warbler (Psylloscopus trochilus). Loch Garten Nature Reserve, Scotland.
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Common Sandpiper (Actitis hypoleucos). Loch Garten Nature Reserve, Scotland.
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A Spotted Flycatcher (Muscicapa striata) was tending
its nest and Willow Warblers (Psylloscopus trochilus) sang from the
trees. Common Sandpipers (Actitis hypoleucos) perched along the shore of the loch and probably had a nest nearby.
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Mistle Thrush (Turdus viscivorus). Loch Garten Nature Reserve, Scotland.
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We found a Mistle Thrush (Turdus viscivorus) feeding
in a clearing. This large thrush looks much
like our American Robin (Turdus migratorius) in form but is spotted on the breast.
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Red Kite (Milvus milvus). Arabella, Scotland. |
The most impressive bird we found was the Red Kite (Milvus
milvus). These large raptors feed
mostly on carrion but will also take small animals. They were mercilessly persecuted for hundreds
of years and became extinct in Scotland in the 19th century. In the 20th century Red Kites were
protected by law and have been reintroduced over much of their former
range. One of the Red Kites we saw had a
radio transmitter on its back to monitor its movements and activities.
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Red Deer (Cervus elephus). Insh Marshes Nature Reserve, Scotland. |
Mammals also inhabit the Ancient Caledonian Forest. Red Deer
(Cervus elaphus) are native to much of Europe and Western Asia and have
been transported around the world as game animals. We found a young buck browsing in a
meadow.
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River Otter (Lutra lutra) with fish. Loch Garten Nature Reserve, Scotland. |
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River Otter. Loch Garten Nature Reserve, Scotland.
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We had the good fortune to see a Eurasian River Otter (
Lutra
lutra) swimming in a Loch.
This
charismatic animal declined in much of Great Britain during the 20
th
century due to pollution and habitat loss, but their numbers remained strong in
Scotland.
Dave Cullen our guide to the
Ancient Caledonian Forest, had been a ranger at this preserve and knew otters
were present but he had never seen them.
He was quite excited when we spotted this one.
When a guide is impressed by a sighting you
know it is significant.
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Steve and Diane Coggin in the Ancient Caledonian Forest. Loch Garten Nature Reserve, Scotland. |
Today the Ancient Caledonian Forest is a shadow of its former
self. It probably reached its greatest
extend about 5000 years ago. Then the
climate began to warm and became wetter.
People felled the trees for timber, and created agricultural and grazing land which diminished
the forest further. By the mid-20th
century only about 1% of the forest remained.
Now a movement called rewilding is going on in Scotland. It seeks to bring back the forest by replanting
the native flora and reintroducing keystone animals. This is an admirable effort to undo some of
the damage we have done to the Ancient Caledonian Forest over the millennia.