Monarchs (Danaus plexipus) are iconic
butterflies. They are the most charismatic
of lepidopterans and they have captured the imagination of North Americans. First, they are brilliantly colored and
patterned; orange with black stripes and white spots. Second, their caterpillars eat and thrive on
toxic milkweed plants (Asclepius
sp.). Finally, they undertake the most epic
of insect migrations. Each year several
generations of Monarch Butterflies do a serial migration from Central Mexico to
the Northern United States and Southern Canada and back.
|
A Monarch Butterfly (Danaus plexipus) resting on the trunk of an Oyamel (Abies religiosa) tree
at the El Rosario Sanctuary in Michoacan, Mexico |
We have seen
all the stages of the Monarch life cycle from egg to caterpillar to adult, throughout
the US.
We have also seen small parts of
their migration.
In September Monarchs
pass south through North Carolina.
The
migration is more dramatic at gaps along the Blue Ridge Parkway with dozens of
butterflies steaming through a mountain gap in an hour.
In the
mid-1970s, after decades of searching, researchers announced that millions of Monarch Butterflies spend the winter high in the fir forests of the Trans-Mexican Volcanic Belt west of Mexico City. This
winter, Diane and I went with another naturalist couple to Mexico see this
final piece if the Monarch story. To
close the circle on the Monarch life cycle.
After
spending a day enjoying the cultural splendors of Mexico City we piled into a
15-passenger van with our driver and guide for the three hour drive to the
mountain town of Angangueo in the state of Michoacán.
This former mining boom town is now ground
zero for Monarch viewing.
Our first stop
was the Sierra Chincua Monarch Sanctuary north of Angangueo.
After paying our fees, we mounted horses and
rode them about halfway to the butterfly colony.
A guide accompanies every group that ascends
the mountain.
This arrangement keeps visitors
on the trails and provides income for people living in the area.
|
Oyamel trees in the Sierra Chincua Sanctcuary, Michocan, Mexico |
As we gained altitude, we entered the fog
that shrouded the mountaintops and the temperature dropped. Leaving the horses,
we continued to climb on foot through a moist montane forest.
Large trees including pines and broad-leafed
species gave way to Oyamel, the Sacred Fir (
Abies
religiosa).
The understory of the
forest had a variety of sage species in flower, a yellow composite and abundant
mosses and lichens.
Finally, at over
10,000 we reached the butterflies.
They
coated the Oyamel trunks and hung in pendulous bunches from limbs.
The temperature was in the low 50s and the
humidity was 100%.
These conditions
allow the Monarchs to live for months during the winter rather than the weeks
typical of the butterflies in the breeding season.
We saw many butterflies through the mist and
they were all resting and conserving their energy.
We visited
another Monarch Sanctuary near Angangueo called El Rosario. El Rosario was the most developed of the
sanctuaries. Shops, food stands,
souvenir vendors and an impressive gate with a butterfly theme welcomed
us. Even the restrooms had butterflies
enameled in the sink.
|
El Rosario Sanctuary gate, Michoacan, Mexico |
|
Butterfly sink at El Rosario Sanctuary. |
Rather than ride
the horses up the mountain we decided to hike.
Our guide, Pepe, was knowledgeable and very enthusiastic.
He learned we were also interested in birds and pointed out many along the trail including the impressive Red Warbler (
Cardellina ruber).
This tiny bird is bright red with silver
cheek patches and is abundant in the forests where the Monarchs winter.
There were also many hummingbirds including
the Mexican Violetear (
Colibri thalassinus).
|
Red Warbler (Cardellina ruber). El Rosario Sanctuary, Michoacan, Mexico. |
|
Mexican Violetear (Colibri thalassinus). |
As
we reached the tall Oyamels we could see the large bunches of Monarchs hanging from limbs
and dead butterflies littered the ground.
Some had probably died of natural causes but some were missing
their abdomen.
This is a sign the
butterflies were eaten by birds.
Avian
predators usually avoid Monarchs because the milkweed toxins ingested by the
caterpillars are retained in the adults after metamorphosis.
But, two species of birds in these mountains,
Black-backed Orioles (
Icterus abeillei)
and Black-headed Grosbeaks (
Pheucticus melanocephalus) eat monarchs.
|
Monarch Butterflies on Oyamel trunks and limbs.
El Rosario Sanctuary, Michoacan, Mexico. |
|
Dead Monarchs, El Rosario Sanctuary, Michocan, Mexico. |
Not all is
rosy for the Monarchs or the people who work to offer them sanctuary.
The number of Monarchs wintering in these
mountains has been in a long-term decline.
The usual suspects are to blame; habitat loss, pesticides, climate
change.
People that defend monarchs are
also at risk.
The director of the El
Rosario Sanctuary was murdered days before we arrived.
A former guide at the Sanctuary was killed
while we were in Mexico.
The poverty and
economic interests to convert forest to agricultural land are pressuring the
wintering grounds of the Monarchs.
There
is some good news, wintering Monarch numbers have increased in the last few
years, perhaps because of milkweed plantings in the US and Canada.
|
Monarchs resting on Oyamel trunks and flying.
Pierda Herrada Sanctuary, Mexico, Mexico. |
While it was
impressive to see hundreds of thousands of Monarch Butterflies resting on
tree trunks and branches, we had hoped to see them flying.
The weather had not cooperated so far. However,
we had one more sanctuary to visit.
In
Mexico State, Piedra Herrada Sanctuary is in the mountains above Valle de
Bravo.
We hiked to the butterfly roosts
at this sanctuary and it turned out to be the longest and steepest
walk.
After two hours on the trail and
numerous stops to enjoy the plants, birds and to breathe, we made it to the
Monarchs.
The day was warm and
sunny.
The forest in this sanctuary was
more open and diverse than the first two we visited and the butterflies were
flying.
|
Monarchs feeding on a yellow composite. Piedra Herrada, Mexico, Mexico. |
Monarchs were flying high and low, landing on
people, sipping nectar from the abundant flowers and putting on a fantastic show.
However, this was not a show for our
benefit.
When their internal body
temperature get high enough the butterflies must feed on nectar to replenish
their energy supplies.
They need the
energy because in late February the Monarchs begin to reproduce and begin their
migration north.
The Monarchs leave
their winter mountain refuges, lay eggs on milkweed plants in Northern Mexico
and the Southern US and die.
Their
offspring continue the migration and complete the circle.
|
Monarchs on Oyamel branches, Piedra Herrada Sanctuary, Mexico, Mexico. |